Category Archives: City scapes

Barcelona!

Our previous blog focused on the amazing Sagrada Familia as it just overwhelmed our senses, so now we can focus on other interesting spots in Barcelona. Just that name conjures up             a certain waiter from Fawlty Towers, but fortunately we met many funny and competent waiters bearing no resemblance to Manuel!

After docking, we left the huge port and were driven around some of the highlights on a rather cool and wet day (this causes grumpy photographers) so we later returned in beautiful sunshine.

Fabulous views from Montjuic Hill.

A Barcelona 9a A Barcelona 10a A Barcelona 11a

Lots of infrastructure was built for the 1992 Olympics and beautiful art galleries and monuments abound.

A Barcelona 8a

Check out this massive column of Christopher Columbus. Apparently he is meant to be looking out towards “that far distant shore” he discovered but in reality he’s pointing to Sicily. Oops!

A Barcelona 12a

Where else could you find the old bullfighting amphitheatre housing a modern day shopping centre?

A Barcelona 6a

We ‘needed’ to check out Les Cortes Ingles – an upmarket department store, with a magnificent supermarket section in the basement. Here they sell the famous jamon iberico. It’s also very expensive  – check out the (Euro) price of the single ham in a boxed gift wrap below! Fortunately they are cheaper and available in smaller amounts at butchers and the markets…

A Barcelona 14a A Barcelona ham stand

Along the Passeig de Gracia. Lots of clever forward thinking people in this city… The early roads were designed with expansion in mind and with major intersections angled to allow easy turning.

A Barcelona 1a A Barcelona 2 A Barcelona 3 A Barcelona 4a

A Barcelona 15a

So back to the Viking Star for our last night on board and fond farewells to our friends – last drinks on the balcony, last dinner at the World Cafe. So sad, but we are already making a shortlist for our next meeting place…

A Last nite aboard

Next morning the Aparthotel Silver went out of their way to make our stay memorable – our room was ready for a 9.30am check in straight from the ship, top quality advice on all the transport options, discounts, and a bottle of bubbly waiting for us… What is not to like?!

Off to shop till we dropped on Las Ramblas, a 1 km boulevard – crowded with what seemed to be a good mixture of tourists and locals.

A Barcelona 3a A Barcelona 4 A Barcelona 7a A Barcelona 13a

Our favourite spot as usual was the huge food market, dotted with bars for a quick selection of snacks and a drink.

Each evening we wandered the streets to find a un vaso de vino blanco y una cerveza, and of course tapas. Not only because it is such a great way to eat, but because cafes and restaurants don’t start serving dinner till 9pm (at the earliest).

We want to try and re-create several dishes at home. Number one will be the Catalan traditional tomato bread that accompanies tapas. It looks so simple but has excellent taste and texture and is perfect with jamon, anchovies, cheese, olives – yum!

Barcelona’s population is 1.6 million with a total of 7 million in the province of Catalonia. There is a chequered past  – and future – in regard to pro-Catalan vs anti-Spain sentiments in this region. Passions run high and strong…. This interesting blog describes some of the challenges for the younger generations.

We have barely scratched the surface of Spain, so it now joins our wish list of European countries to explore in a longer time span and at a more relaxed pace. We will have to keep buying those Lotto tickets…

Inspirational Gaudi…

Antoni Gaudi – What a man, what an imagination! We had been introduced to some of his works in and around Barcelona on a hop-on hop-off coach tour of this beautifully planned and laid out city…

A Gaudi 1 A Gaudi 2 A Gaudi 3

However, we were not prepared for the visual WOW! of the Sagrada Familia designed by Gaudi as an ‘exceptional place of worship’.

This building is a photographer’s dream – everywhere you look you find interesting things to capture. The exterior is amazing in scale and the amount of sculptured fine detail – animals, dragons and serpents mix it with Gothic arches, mosaics and beautifully formed window surrounds in the typical Gaudi style. It just goes on and on…

A SF 1 A SF 2 A SF 3 A SF10 A SF11 A SF12 A SF14

Yes, those are cranes and construction teams swarming all over the building because it has been “a work in progress” since 1883 and they hope it will be finished in 1926, exactly 100 years after Gaudi’s death. That’s five generations who have witnessed this tower being built to Gaudi’s design!

HOWEVER, the interior is something else again! It was as I would envisage walking into a cauliflower kaleidoscope… It is simply breathtaking to witness. Organic forms are everywhere and the columns stretch up like huge plant parts to the ceiling – all illuminated by the sun streaming through acres of stained glass. It has been planned to allow one side to be largely blue/green and the other red/orange/yellow… The sun was coming through the red/orange/yellow side (probably the south west side – I am always confused with light direction in the northern hemisphere).

A SF 15 A SF 16 A SF 17 A SF 18 A SF 19 A SF 20 A SF 21 A SF 22

The Director of the school of architecture who handed Gaudi his degree way back in 1878 apparently stated “He is either a genius or a madman”. I won’t go on any more, but let the photographs show the result. Enjoy….

A SF 4 A SF 5 A SF 6 A SF 23 A SF 24 A SF 25

” Gaudi’s architecture is timeless since it does not rely on styles or tendencies and still gives pleasure three-quarters of a century after his death in the same way as flowers or mountains do”

From GAUDI the entire works… Joan Bassegoda i Nonell

Monaco & Toulon

As we glided into Monaco, our waiter said “Now you will start to smell the money!”

What an accurate description of this principality where the cost per square METRE averages   60 000 Euros, and each letter on the Yacht “Lady Moura” docked beside us is printed in 24 carat gold!

A Monaco 1 A Monaco 2 A Monaco 4

We assumed that Monaco and Monte-Carlo were one and the same – wrong! Monaco is the (tiny) country, and Monte-Carlo is the area on the hill that houses the famous casino and most of the luxury hotels.

We walked around the medieval “Rock” section and through a very pretty garden – we gave up calculating how much each flower or leaf would be worth in real estate value!

A Monaco 6

We could see the Musee Oceanographique literally hanging on a cliff. It was directed by the wonderful Jacques Cousteau for many years – how many people recall watching his magic TV shows? Wish we had known ahead of time as we certainly would have goofed off to explore there…

A Monaco 5

Then it was off to the famous cathedral where Grace Kelly was buried. Sadly we had reached our quota of religious and royal exposure for the week.

The police detail that appeared suddenly scattering the crowd was interesting though – suddenly an armoured car with the number plate MC01 whisked past us. Yep, Prince Albert 2 self driving in his Lexus! Guess we still got our quota of royalty for the day!

A Monaco 9 A Monaco 11 A Monaco 12

Speaking of which, the crime rate in Monaco is very low. This could be due to having 1 policeman to every 40 people, not including any of the palace guards.

A mortar 2 A mortar 1

Also it was great to hear that social housing is provided for citizens ‘without wealth’ for a tiny 400 euros a month rent. We saw some of these apartments around the harbour which looked great and were well located.

A Monaco 7

A Monaco nite 1

That evening was a fun night organised by Don Lehman for our group of 8 at the Chef’s Table on board the Viking Star. Thanks Don, we really enjoyed the night!

The five course “Sweet and Salty” menu gave us a chance to try out several new tastes. We will spare you from the full menu with all the diatribe of posh ingredients, but Ian’s rave dish was the beetroot jelly with grilled scallops and a hint of passionfruit.

A Chefs table 1 A Chefs table 2 A Chefs table 3 A Chefs table 4 A Chefs table 5

Ginny loved the dessert – not usually her favourite part of the menu. A thickened Bavarian cream with basil jelly and strawberry sauce … Finished with a tiny scattering of rock salt. Sublime!

Each course came with a selected glass of wine which was perfect over the evening. Later on we even managed to dance the night away at a Beatles tribute. Well, the ‘we’ is not quite true as the pain in Ian’s knee prevents such frivolity (roll on his operation in November!) but fun was had by all.

Next morning saw a stunning French sunrise as we arrived in Toulon.

A Sunset at sea

The local Provençal market was interesting – beautiful flowers everywhere and about 12 different varieties of olives…

A Toulon 1 A Toulon 2

However we saw some limp blackish cauliflowers that were a worry! We’ve seen this in a few places now and it seems weird and such a total contrast to all the other beautiful fresh produce. Does anyone know if there is a reason for this? Maybe a special recipe?!

There are many fountains and squares throughout the city, some in better shape than others. Our guide indicated that funding to maintain and renovate the Old Town is very limited in the current economic climate. Parts are uninhabited or unsafe, and sadly they have a nasty virus in many of their palm trees.

A Toulon 8 A Toulon 9 A Toulon 10 A Toulone 8 A Toulon 6 A Toulon 3

In contrast the Opera House is in constant use and is a very beautiful building with many sculptures adorning it.

A Toulon 7

So there you are.  Monaco & Toulon, third and second last port of call before Barcelona…

Livorno & Pisa

We witnessed a lovely sunrise as we approached the very busy port of Livorno in Tuscany and travelled to Pisa, home of that amazing leaning tower.

A Livorno sunrise

A Livorno 1

En route we were surprised to pass a huge American army base. Camp Darby was first established in 1951 and is apparently the largest base outside of US territory. It seemed an odd contrast to the peaceful Tuscan countryside.

Back in medieval times Pisa was one of the most powerful Italian maritime regions, but today the city is about 20 minutes from the sea (blame river silting for this). Now the residents’ main income comes from two sources.

One is as a university town (founded in 1343!) with approx. 25,000 students. This is where Galileo was born and studied and they are naturally proud of this, showing such relics as the swinging lamp in the cathedral he studied to come to his theory of isochronism in pendulums – “that the period of the swing is independent of its amplitude”. There is some dispute about this as the present lamp dates from 1587 (after Galileo had moved away) and cost over 600 scudi! However, there probably was another which preceded the one now hanging there. Nice story and nice lamp and of course the original was candle lit! The lamp would have had to be lowered to light the candles and there would have been movement induced at that time…

A Pisa 1 A Pisa 2

Pisa’s other income comes from tourists like us visiting its art and architectural treasures, mostly in the buildings in the Piazza del Duomo, the so-called Square of Miracles. The Leaning Tower is a bell tower and is probably the most famous building, but this piazza also contains a cathedral, baptistery and a cemetery.

A Pisa 3

A Pisa 4 A Pisa 5 A Pisa 6 A Pisa 7

Gino was our wonderful guide and has been teaching tourists about Pisa since the 1970s. He lives in an apartment within the area where the tower is predicted to fall in 2126. As he pointed out, that will probably be of little concern to him!

It’s worth mentioning here that almost all the places we have visited on our trip have been under restoration or reconstruction – which has made photographing them awkward – and ugly sometimes, although it must be said that efforts have been made to mask off these construction processes.

We had enough time to have a fortifying un bicchiere di vino bianco e una birra among the hundreds of hawkers plying their wares… And that was how we met the only other West Australian couple travelling on the same cruise. It is a small world indeed!

Naples – Sorrento & Pompeii

We slid into the huge port of Naples and it was not long before we were off on a long day out…

Driving along the Sorrento Peninsula was interesting – we were happy not to be driving the bus on a cool and rainy day along the narrow road with so many hairpin bends! All these ancient towns seem to have long and often violent histories.

A Sorrento 1

As with many medieval coastal towns we have experienced on this cruise, the little back streets were full of souvenir shops. This time we spotted a couple of items we needed… Like some lovely Limoncello in a cute bottle (keep it in the freezer and served as a slushy!) and a shirt for Ian and a top for Ginny. We also admired these intricate clay models.

After all that shopping it was time for coffee or wine – guess what we chose?

A Sorrento 2 A Sorrento shopping 2 A Sorrento shopping

Then it was on to Pompeii. What an experience!

“Civilisation exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice.”

This quote from Will Durant sums up our feelings very well.

Pompeii was already pretty ancient before Vesuvius blew its top in 79AD. All very interesting, but we found the most telling evidence of age were the cart ruts in the hard basalt cobbles! All this happened well before the eruption and is a solid indicator of the town’s antiquity.

A Pom 4 A Pom 5

 

A Pom 8 A Pom 10

The barriers across the road in the photo above are not ancient speed humps, but were used to get across the road without walking through a lot of waste water and sewage. Hmmm.

Check out the pizza/bread oven – not much has changed in the design as it is almost identical to the one in our back yard, if a bit larger…

A Pom oven

Other parts needed a little imagination, but the artefacts recovered, including the remains of a dog and a person needed no explanation.

A Pom 6 A Pom 7

A Pom 9

It is worth remembering that the Mediterranean area was the centre of the rise of civilisation in Europe with cropping in the Fertile Crescent – and therefore sedentary populations were present from very early times.

These people built on previous building remains as and where convenient, so there are several layers of work present in most of the cities… It is all pretty mind blowing in its extent and scale.

Why did they build such huge places?  The Pantheon is an outstanding example. The columns outside are one piece and were transported from Egypt by sea and river! The capital (top section) came from Greece!

Amazing…

We hope these photographs successfully convey the situation in Pompeii. However, you really need to walk the streets and experience the place yourself for it to sink in…

Corfu & the Messina Straits

Our only stop in Greece was the island of Corfu.

How many people remember reading “My Family and Other Animals” by Gerald Durrell?!  It was such a fascinating story about his family’s experiences living on Corfu, as well as all the ‘beasties’ they nurtured.

We enjoyed our scenic (hairpin) drive around the island, and seeing spectacular seascapes from on high…A Corfu 1 A Corfu 9Especially seeing ancient farms with typical Mediterranean produce – think olive groves, garlic, pomegranates, oranges – mixed with cannons, fortresses and other relics of war.

A Corfu 10 A Corfu 8 A Corfu 7

A Corfu 4

A Corfu 6

Unfortunately Inland Corfu is looking very run-down, with many deserted homes in evidence. The only upmarket area was the sea front with the usual tourist traps… Very sad.

Then it was back on board to sail around the south of Italy, past Mount Etna – hiding behind a shroud of cloud – and through the Straits of Messina – the tiny gap between Sicily and the mainland.

A Messina st 1 A Messina st 2

Control over this gap has been a historic – well, nightmare is the only word that comes to mind. It has only been navigable for large ships since 1957.

OK, test for today – how many seeds do you think are in a pomegranate? No googling!

Croatia

After 10 days, we sadly had to say “Ciao for now!” to Italy. It has been a wonderful time and we have learnt so much from many special people – we hope to return one day.

2015_mediterranean_odyssey_478x345_tcm13-3449

This map shows the places we will be visiting over the next 13 days on the Mediterranean. We sailed on the Viking Star from Venice late in the afternoon, out into the Adriatic Sea.

A Leaving Venice

Croatia put on a magnificent sound and sky show for our arrival early in the morning – lots of thunder and lightning!

A Split 1

But by 10 am, the sun was shining as we walked into the seaside town of Split which was named as one of the first UNESCO World Heritage sites way back in the 1960s.

These photos show parts of the Roman Emperor Diocletian’s “retirement palace” built in the 3rd century. One part is now a cathedral, the original living quarters are a hotel and the underground storage tunnels are used for a market.

A Split 2 A Split 3

A Split 4

A Split 5 A Split 6 A Sunset at sea

We walked back through the ‘green market’ – it’s always interesting to see where the locals buy their fruit and vegetables, and what is in season.

Overnight we sailed further south to Dubrovnik. It was so peaceful to watch the sun’s rays slowly light up the red roofs of the homes dotted around the hills of this walled medieval town. In complete contrast, the sky was a mass of criss-crossing contrails – they are definitely on the flight path to everywhere!

A Dub 1 A Dub 2 A Dub 3 A Dub 5 A Dub 6

Walking through the town was an unexpected pleasure! Instead of cobblestones (beautiful to walk on but really hard on the body), their Stradun pathway is paved with limestone. It has been finely polished to a smooth surface over the centuries. Not sure what happens in wet weather though – we suspect it could be a very slippery experience!

The alleyways were fascinating as always, with graffiti dating back to the 1500’s on the walls and pigeons and feral cats doing their best to make a nuisance of themselves.

There were also some lovely spots down by the sea.

A Dub 7 A Dub 8 A Dub8 A Dubrovnik 1

Our local guide spoke passionately about the impact of the “last war” in 1992-93 when parts of the town were destroyed, 13 000 people were killed and they were without potable water for months.

Today local people find it hard to make ends meet and there is very high unemployment. It is common for families to bunk in together so they can rent out their homes to tourists during the summer. However we felt very safe, welcome and enjoyed our time in the lovely country of Croatia…. have you been there?

A Beaut Gondola

Venice – Water City

And so we headed east through Northern Italy to the famous City of Water to start our cruise of the Mediterranean…

A Venice 1 A Venice 2 A Venice 3

We recently watched a documentary about the considerable social, economic and environmental stressors for native Venetians, and frankly it was quite tragic. Few local people can afford to live in Venice itself, so those lucky enough to be employed commute daily from the mainland.

A Venice 4 A Venice 5 A Venice 6

And although the major subsidence (caused by extraction of water from below ground) has halted, poor Venice is continuing to sink about 2mm a year. Doesn’t sound much, but it must be a worry when the water is already lapping at your front door!

A Venice 7 A Venice 8 A Venice 9

First great surprise was how easy it was to find our way around. We caught a vaporetto (water bus) that transports both locals and tourists. It was a whole new experience to travel in a floating city where 118 small islands are separated by 170 boat canals and linked by 400 foot bridges… Magical!

We easily found our stop and only had to walk 150m to our hotel.  Accommodation is very costly in this city, but we had booked the Hotel Ala at a reasonable rate.

So Surprise No 2 was the brilliant location, within walking distance of all the places we wanted to visit. Our room overlooking a canal was fine, and the desk staff were helpful. Fantastico!

First visit was to Piazza San Marco, the famous St Mark’s Square which is just full of history through the ages. Several of Venice’s major sights are located here and if you turn around slowly you see so many different styles of architecture.

We were puzzled to see raised walkways on most streets but their purpose soon became clear! It was high tide in Venice and the city was flooded with water up to mid-calf level. The locals were wearing their gum boots, and the tourists had to buy very fashionable (not) plastic leggings.

A Venice 13 A Venice 14 A Venice 15

There was no choice as there is no other way to move around other than walking… And those walkways were overcrowded… And barefoot just did not appeal!

Murano glass is famous for its beauty so it was great to see the artisans at work. Some pieces were beautiful, others were not to our taste. Of course the one piece we loved was 5000 euros. Hmmm, it’s still on the shelf waiting for that Lotto win!

A Venice 10 A Venice 11 A Venice 12

We finally boarded the Viking Star and met up with our American friends. What an amazing reunion, and what a beautiful ship.

She really stands out in port, and the interior is also beautifully designed. Not sure how they have achieved it, but our home for the next 13 days looks and feels like a luxurious hotel while still being truly comfortable.

The Viking Mob 2

So we came to Venice with eyes wide open, and left feeling great tenderness for this city. She  reminds us of a lovely old lady wearing lots of furs, jewellery and bright lipstick to disguise the fact that time is moving on – but is even more lovable for her attitude.

If you have been to Venice, do share your experience with us…

Florence to Turin

Our favourite market in Florence was the Mercato Centrale, literally 30 steps around the corner in San Lorenzo Square. On the ground floor are outstanding artisans – the rules ensure that only “healthy, good, tasty food” is provided and it truly was like heaven for food lovers. Outstanding seasonal fruit and vegetables, meat and fish of all sorts. You can see the the second story in the photo, which houses about 20 different food outlets – and this is where locals also go to eat and drink for a casual, good value, evening out.

A Market Firenze 1

It was time to bid farewell to Florence and travel to Turin by fast train. Ian has recently made contact with some previously unknown Italian relatives, and so we were privileged to have a very special travel guide and a wonderful interpreter. Grazze mille, Claudia and family and to Lorena – your generosity made our two days in Torino an outstanding experience!

Claudia & Alessandro

Ilara & Alessandro

Luca with kids Ilaras dog 2 (1)

We shared several beautiful meals, wine and family time with Claudia and her extended family. No wonder this region of Piedmont is known as the centre of the ‘slow food movement’.

Turin is a very impressive city, with wide streets and beautiful architecture.

A Turin 1 A Turin 2 A Turin 3

The Egyptian museum was founded in 1824 when archeology was all the rage and it is ranked as Number 2 in the world, only after Cairo! It houses many floors of antiquities dedicated to culture and art and was truly impressive. We only saw a small part of this collection and these few photos don’t really do it justice. A ‘must see’ museum if you are at all interested in this fascinating period of Egypt’s history.

A Turin 10 A Turin 11

A Turin 12 A Turin 13

A Turin 15 A Turin 16 A Turin 17

It was so sad to say goodbye to the family in Torino at the train station. We hope to return one day, and that they will also come to visit us in Australia.

And now, off to explore Venice and then meet up with our American friends to go cruising – just a tiny bit excited!

Ponte Vecchio & Galileo Museum

Of course no visit to Florence would be complete without walking across the Ponte Vecchio – the Old Bridge – across the Arno River.

A Bridges 1 A Bridges 2 A Bridges 3 A Bridges 4 A Bridges 7 A Bridges 8

There have been shops here since the 13th century including butchers, fishmongers and tanners. You can imagine the pong! A happy solution: King Ferdinand 1 decreed in 1593 that only goldsmiths and jewellers’ shops would be allowed on the bridge.

During World War II it was the only bridge not destroyed by the fleeing Germans. Instead they blocked access by demolishing the medieval buildings on each side. A tragedy!

A Bridges 14 A Bridges 13 A Bridges 12 A Bridges 10 A Bridges 9

Very close to the Ponte Vecchio is the Galileo Museum. There is some material of Galileo’s there, but it houses a lot of 16th & 17th instruments used in many other disciplines beside astronomy.

A Gm 2 A Gm 3 A Gm 4 A Gm 5 A Gm 6 A Gm 7 A Gm 8 A Gm 9 A Gm1

The ornate fashioning of some of these instruments in brass and wood is a joy to behold. The Italian way of doing things didn’t include ‘plain’…

History really is on every cobblestone and corner in this beautiful country. Ciao for now!